Christie’s Paris Jewelery Talents Of Today showcases contemporary art jewelery alongside vintage gems – Low Calorie Diets Tips

The Jewelery Talents of Today showcase opens today at Christie’s Paris featuring five exceptional independent jewelery designers as part of Joaillerie Paris’ online sale. Presented by Parisian jewelery gallery Second Petale, Aida Bergsen, Mashandy by Philippe Guilhem, Gaëlle Khouri, Jose Marin and Salima Thakker will all feature recent work alongside vintage jewels from historic houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron.

Second Petale founder Arina Pouzoullic approached Christie’s with the idea for a contemporary jewelery art exhibition during the pandemic, and the first event in June 2021 brought together Sarah Ho, Kayo Saito, Ulla and Martin Kaufman, Tomasz Donocik and Chiara Passoni . A second edition followed in November 2021, presenting jewels by BARE by Dries Criel, Luz Camino, MAD Joaillerie, Marie Mas, Rosior and Walid Akkad. Each time, the selection featured a mix of established and up-and-coming international designers.

“Each piece is chosen because it evokes an emotional response that goes beyond a transaction,” says Arina. The edit is about authenticity of vision, excellent craftsmanship and a certain universality; Jewelery that is not only timeless, but resonates across generations and geographical boundaries. Most importantly, curation contributes to a shift toward independent design in the art jewelry world, which is gaining momentum. “Christie’s believes that today’s creativity will be tomorrow’s masterpieces,” said Emilie Grimonprez, jewelery specialist at Christie’s Paris.

For Christie’s, the partnership represents an opportunity to attract a new clientele with jewels from a diverse range of contemporary designers; while the designers themselves can benefit from the visibility of a global arts institution. “Jewellery Talents of Today moves the needle,” says Arina. “Value for consumers lies in discovery and access to rare finds, while artists receive validation and empowerment in the global art market, and jewelry artistry is promoted, which is a plus for the industry as a whole. All of this contributes to the development of jewelry as an artistic discipline.”

The showcase runs in parallel with the sale of several private collections in the Joaillerie Paris online auction, including the personal collection of Art Deco jeweler Jean Fouquet and the modernist jewelery collection of June Newton, wife of photographer Helmut Newton. “Vintage jewelry is highlighted with strong pieces like the diamond and ruby ​​zip necklace by Van Cleef and Arpels,” says Emilie of the auction, which features 293 lots that range in jewelry from the 1920s Art Deco to the more recent 1980s and 1990s years. A spectacular moving panther pendant with emerald green eyes by René Boivin is also set to sell for between $105,000 and $157,000.

They combine to create a glittering backdrop of vintage treasures that provide the perfect foil for five outstanding pieces of contemporary jewelery art selected by Second Petal. Below, Arina shares her thoughts on each of the featured artists.

Mashandy by Philippe Guilhem

“For me, Philippe creates fabulous, powerful conversations between colored gemstones of exceptional quality and the ancestral metal bronze. They are truly unique masterpieces, jewelry sculptures.” -Arina Pouzoullic

Philippe Guilhem emphasizes the contrast between brilliantly colored gemstones and the warmth of bronze, an ancient material rarely used in fine jewellery. Fourth generation of a family of jewelers based in the French Alps, he founded Mashandy in 2017, distilling inspiration from primitive art, modernist sculpture and contemporary architecture into rings evolving from large scale sculptures to wearable works of art on a smaller scale. He is also a gem hunter and usually starts with the stone itself, working the bronze around it using pure lines and shapes that are instinctive to the touch. Gold lined for comfort, the Goya ring features a 7.32 carat unheated Myanmar spinel set in bronze that will develop a unique patina from the wearer’s body over time.

Target price: $8,400 – $12,600

Aida Bergsen

“I call her Wonderland Queen. Her design signature is elegant, honest and accomplished. Inspired by nature, her creations are filled with magic, like the denizens of a wonderland. I find her work empowering and uplifting.” -Arina Pouzoullic

Istanbul-based jewelry designer Aida Bergsen comes from a family of artists and began her creative career as a sculptor, a skill she applies to her jewelry work through the wax carvings from which her pieces are cast. Her modern, wearable works sit at the meeting point of jewelry design and sculpture, which she describes as a “dream community”, producing naturalistic jewels that evoke fairytale worlds and illustrate the fables of her homeland. Christie’s introduces the Hedera earrings, convertible chandelier earrings in 18k rose gold and pavé diamonds that can also be worn as a chandelier or as a pendant.

Target price: $8,400 – $12,600

Jose Marin

“As a titanium goldsmith, Jose Marin is internationally the best of the best in his field. A true and rare master of titanium, he treats this metal as a hero and innovative material, resulting in colorful and sensual handcrafted jewelry that is truly one-of-a-kind.” -Arina Pouzoullic

Jose Marin began his goldsmith training at the Valencian Jewelers Guild aged just 13 before opening his own workshop in 2016. Today, he is a De Beers International Jewelery Award-winning goldsmith, drawing inspiration from the Mediterranean to create jewelery that combines titanium with gold, silver and precious stones. Fascinated by color, he is now one of the leading jewelers using titanium and derived metals, achieving a rich color palette through electrolytic anodizing. The lava and ice earrings feature moonstones, pink sapphires and timascus, created by heating multiple sheets of titanium together to highlight the different layers and form a pattern resembling a wood grain.

Target price: $3,150 – $5,250

Gaelle Khouri

“Gaëlle stimulates intellectually and emotionally with her jewels and invites us to rise above the contradictions. She’s a philosopher and I really enjoy this unusual perspective on jewelry. Her works generously make us feel that the wearer is connected to a mystery of the universe.” -Arina Pouzoullic

Lebanese jeweler Gaëlle Khouri creates jewels that provoke thought about the concept of beauty and its perception. Gaëlle’s La Refraction earrings are part of the La Trahison de l’Objet collection, a sophisticated exploration of form as a philosophical idea and aesthetic object, in 18k gold, set with white pavé diamonds and oval pink sapphires. “The earrings connect the intense physicality of the piece of jewelry with the immaterial realm of thought,” says Gaëlle. “It speaks to the beauty of abstraction, which lies in its power to convey emotion in a way that is not directly representational. In my new collection, I explore the process by which we experience and perceive concepts of beauty and our relationship to the objects in the world around us.”

Target price: $8,400 – $12,600

Salima Thakker

“Salima’s work is eclectic, bold and very contemporary. She refuses to set herself any limits as this leads her to unexpected results and varied work. There’s always an element of surprise, a detail or an innovative technique that sets their work apart.” -Arina Pouzoullic

Based in Antwerp, Belgium, in the heart of the European diamond industry, Salima Thakker has been designing and crafting jewelery for over 20 years. “A hands-on approach and understanding how the materials behave when I’m editing them is an essential part of the process,” she told Christie’s. Presented as a set in the Jewelery Talents of Today showcase, the grid rings are an evolution of an earlier ring she made from pierced metal, which allows for greater malleability. Eighteen-karat yellow gold and palladium-white gold are accented with colorless diamonds, accentuating gentle curves that rise to an elegant point.

Target price: $5,250 – $8,400

That Joaillerie Paris online auction runs from June 23rd to July 7th, the pieces will be on view at Christies’s Paris from July 2nd.

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